How to use

1. Select a garment preset or manually enter roll width and layout length.
2. Enter the total net pattern piece area in square meters.
3. Input the fabric price per linear meter for monetary waste calculation.
4. Toggle the nap/directional fabric option if the material has pile or a one-way print.
5. Receive fabric utilization percentage, inter-pattern waste area, and monetary scrap cost.

What is Fabric Utilization Coefficient (CU%)?

The fabric utilization coefficient (CU%) is the ratio of the total net pattern piece area to the gross layout area, expressed as a percentage.

The remainder — inter-pattern waste (scrap) — is the fabric inevitably lost between pattern pieces due to their irregular shapes. CU% is the primary KPI for cutting room efficiency.

• CU% > 85% — excellent industrial layout; minimal scrap;
• CU% 75–85% — acceptable efficiency for bespoke atelier cutting;
• CU% 65–74% — optimization potential exists; review piece nesting order;
• CU% < 65% — inefficient layout; significant material and financial waste.

Why Inter-Pattern Waste Occurs & How to Reduce It

Most garment pattern pieces (sleeves, bodices, trouser legs) have curved edges, inevitably leaving unused fabric between pieces.

Minimizing inter-pattern waste is a primary goal of industrial fabric normalization. In high-volume production, even a 2–3% CU% improvement creates substantial cost savings.

• Nest paired pieces 'head-to-toe' (anti-parallel) — the most effective technique for non-nap fabrics;
• Fill gaps between large pieces with small components: pocket flaps, loops, tabs, and facings;
• Match bolt width to pattern width to eliminate wasted selvedge margins;
• For directional nap or large pattern repeats, budget an extra 10–15% allowance;
• Use CAD marker-making software (Gerber AccuMark, Lectra) for automated nesting optimization.

Layout Efficiency Calculation Example

Consider a dress layout using a 150 cm wide, 2.2 m long piece of fabric. The total net pattern piece area equals 2.65 m².

• Gross layout area: 1.5 m × 2.2 m = 3.3 m²;
• CU% = 2.65 / 3.3 × 100% = 80.3% — good efficiency;
• Inter-pattern waste area: 3.3 − 2.65 = 0.65 m²;
• At 420 UAH/m and 150 cm width, monetary waste: 0.65 × (420/1.5) ≈ 182 UAH per garment.

How Bolt Width Affects Layout Efficiency

Bolt width directly influences how pieces nest across the spread. Optimal width maximizes area fill without excess selvedge.

• 140–150 cm — standard for most suiting, dress, and woven fabrics;
• 180–200 cm — wide knit jersey and fleece for hoodies and sportswear;
• 280–300 cm — drapery and voile fabrics;
• When choosing between two bolt widths, compare CU% in both scenarios before ordering.

Fabric Allowance Norms & Technological Reserves

In ateliers and factories, the fabric consumption norm is approved by the production technologist and includes net pattern area plus a technological percentage for inter-pattern waste.

• Simple garments (skirts, straight trousers): 8–12% technological reserve;
• Complex garments (lined blazers, winter coats): 15–20% reserve;
• Large plaid or stripe pattern matching: an additional 20–30% repeat allowance;
• Nap or directional one-way fabrics: +10–15% due to anti-parallel nesting restriction.